Nestle Mirage, 41-gram bar: The only problem with this Canadian candy bar, as with so many oddball products in my possession, is that I have just one sample on hand -- if I open the wrapper, I'll ruin my lone specimen. This urge to have my candy and eat it too seems particularly hopeless when assessing a product called Mirage. Fortunately, my Canadian-expatriate pal Margie is familiar with the confection and confirms that it's just what it sounds like -- whipped chocolate with so many little air pockets that the bar looks more substantial than it actually is. A curiously admirable case of truth in advertising.

(Nestle, P.O. Box 7200, Willowdale B, Ontario M2K 2Z2, Canada)

Back