Core77 Discussion Groups
  Materials & Processes
  Does Resin need Oxygen?

Post New Topic  Post A Reply
profile | register | preferences | faq | search

UBBFriend: Email This Page to Someone! next newest topic | next oldest topic
Author Topic:   Does Resin need Oxygen?
y
unregistered
posted 12-10-2003 11:32 PM              Reply w/Quote
does polyester resin (the casting resin which you mix a catalyst for it to harden) need oxygen for it to solidify?

im asking because i want to put my mold in an air tight container so that i dont have to inhale the fumes while it's reacting...

IP: Logged

anaerobe
unregistered
posted 12-11-2003 11:13 AM              Reply w/Quote
no oxygen is needed. that is why you added the catalyst to the resin. but rather than put it in an air tight container, try leaving it in a well-ventilated area or even outside in a protected enclosure....

IP: Logged

polly & her sister ester
unregistered
posted 12-11-2003 12:35 PM              Reply w/Quote
Actually, putting it in an airtight container would hinter the crosslink process(somewhat). The styrene wants to leave during crosslink and if it can't the whole reaction slows down.

The wholre reaction takes place in forty minutes or so (depending on the percentage of cataylization). Once that is over you could put it in a snowbank if you wanted to.

The well ventilated area is your best bet. And don't forget the cup you mixed the batch it in either.


IP: Logged

y
unregistered
posted 12-11-2003 06:53 PM              Reply w/Quote
oh, thanks for your replies

i forgot to mention, im also putting it in an airtight container so that i can bring it inside where it it WARMER. leaving it outside (which is MY equivalent to a "well ventilated area") it is much too cold during the winter time for the resin to react properly/quickly... i've read that resin ideally needs the temperature to be 20C....

any suggestions? inside for 30 mins, outside for 30 mins?

IP: Logged

gluBOY
unregistered
posted 12-12-2003 12:34 PM              Reply w/Quote
you mentioned polyester CASTING resin.

unless it's an issue of transparency, why aren't you using polyurethane casting material? it kicks much faster.

if you are LAMINATING poly and fiberglas you can "flash" it with sunlight (UV) for ten or fifteen minutes and it will continue to crosslink at 32F.

if you will be doing alot of this you could build a "curing oven" using scrap plywood, fiberglas insulation, and a couple of 100W light bulbs for that matter and leave it outside.

at any rate, your material should be WELL cured by now.... :-)

IP: Logged

y
unregistered
posted 12-13-2003 12:42 AM              Reply w/Quote
oh yes, it is an issue of transparancy. i use water-clear casting resin only.

im just concerned how much this air-tight container idea will hinder the crosslink process...
what is styrene exactly?

ive tried my idea for the last couple of days. it seems okay...

IP: Logged

gluboy
unregistered
posted 12-18-2003 12:13 PM              Reply w/Quote
a question y,

are you using RTV (room temp. vulcanizing; silicone)for your molds?

if so, are you experiencing a highly "crackled" surface finish (resembles a "crackled" faux paint appearance, only in 3d) caused by the resin shrinking away from the mold surface as it cures.

just wondering. my clear parts require much sanding and polishing (to remove the surface "crackles") before they are truly "clear".

IP: Logged

y
unregistered
posted 01-02-2004 08:28 PM              Reply w/Quote
hello glueboy,
sorry for the late reply! hope everyone is having a splendid holiday!

i am unfamiliar as to what RTV is. is it those flexible silicone molds? if so, i think i have had that problem but i thought it was because the mold may have not been very smooth... perhaps it WAS because it was shrinking away from the mold...

i think there are different types of resins that have different ratios of shrink-age... sorry, im not near my resin notes to be more informative!

IP: Logged

gluBOY
unregistered
posted 01-05-2004 03:20 PM              Reply w/Quote
R = room
T = temperature
V = vulcanizing (hardening of a rubber-like material; a term that i believe is atributed to BF Goodrich, the tire guy)

yep, it's the same stuff, just a more tech-nickle name for it.

i've tried several casting resins and always seem to get the same "crackley" finish... if i could just come up with some cutsie item that utilized that surface finish i'd be in the fat.

i don't get the crackles when i use a "solid" mold material (like plaster or cast urethane)... but the undercuts are a bitch (multi-piece molds, etc.)...maybe the mold surface is "giving" and is pulled as the resin cures ...

i dunno...

IP: Logged

All times are ET (US)

next newest topic | next oldest topic

Administrative Options: Close Topic | Archive/Move | Delete Topic
Post New Topic  Post A Reply
Hop to:

Contact Us | www.core77.com

Copyright Core77, Inc. 2003

Powered by Infopop www.infopop.com © 2000
Ultimate Bulletin Board 5.45c

Notice: Core77 does promote a FREE exchange of design related ideas in these discussion boards, but will NOT permit unprofessional or spiteful posts. If you engage in inflammatory or immature use of this service, then we will be forced to delete your messages.