Now we arrive at the most important video in our series on DIY webbing projects!
In Part 1, we covered materials and hardware.
In Part 2, we covered tools.
In Part 3, we showed you how to set those tools up for webbing.
Here in part 4, we finally show you how to start putting it all together. Don't worry if parts of the video seem too fast or overwhelming; as always, I've laid out the relevant review points in text form that you can digest at your leisure. So dive into the video and start figuring out what you can make.
Hit the jump for the review points.Sealing the ends. Remember that I'm using polypropylene webbing, which is why a lighter can be used to melt and seal it. If you're using cotton webbing, the lighter's a no-go. I'll work with cotton in the next, final video, to show you how to deal with the ends.
Learning to lock your stitches. As you saw in the video, unlocked stitches will easily come apart at the beginning and end points, since the thread "tails" are just free-floating. Learning to "backtack" over the beginning and end stitches will lock them into place. Some important tips:
1. When placing your machine in reverse, don't turn the handwheel backwards; it always rotates in the same direction. When you put your car into reverse, you don't stick your toe under the gas pedal and pull it upwards.
2. When switching your machine from forward to reverse, or vice versa, always ensure the needle is sunk all the way down into the material. Otherwise the feed dogs will move your material slightly, potentially screwing up your stitch.
Learning to do turns. When you're ready to change directions, remember this sequence:
1. Sink the needle all the way down.
2. Raise the presser foot.
3. Use the needle as a pivot point to rotate your material around.
4. Drop the presser foot.
5. Resume sewing.
The "Box X" stitch. Your first few attempts at it will likely look terrible. Don't get discouraged—while the stitch itself is easy to understand on paper, it requires practice to get the hang of. Some tips:
1. When working with webbing you generally want to keep your stitch length on maximum, but it's okay to adjust them a bit shorter—if, for instance, you're trying to get your Box X centered and the stitch length is throwing your alignment off.
2. You do not need to sew the pattern in the exact sequence I've illustrated in the video; that is just the sequence that I personally have found to be the easiest way to execute it. But feel free to monkey around a bit, as long as you stick with that pattern. No matter which part of the pattern you start drawing first, or what sequence you "draw" in, it will always be a single, continuous line. If you don't understand what I mean, try drawing it first with pen on paper.
In the next and final video I'll walk you through a complete project from start to finish, and provide some efficiency tips.
Lastly, I cannot stress how important the first three entries in this series are. It's really crucial to understand your materials, get the right thread and needles, set the machine up properly, et cetera. If a single one of those things is incorrect, you will not be able to proceed. But once all of those ducks are in a row, you'll be free to just create.