ID students, take note: Eventually you may want to present a project in metal. Depending on the object you design, it may be easier to fabricate the object in wood, then paint it to look like metal. Alternatively, you could skin a wooden object in sheet metal, which raises the problem of fasteners--do you want to see exposed screw heads? You could use adhesive, but you've got to be pretty bang-on, and it might be tough to undo an error.
I'm a new fan of designer/builder Matt Jackson's YouTube channel, as he's got tons of useful fabrication tips on it. His latest is how to attach sheet metal to wood, using this interesting "reverse rivet" method:
I'm digging the look of the rivets and the simplicity of the method!
I’m a lapsed industrial designer. I was born in NYC and figured I’d die there, but a few years ago I abandoned New York to live on a farm in the countryside with my wife. We have six dogs.
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How to Easily Attach Sheet Metal to Wood: The "Reverse Rivet" Trick, No Rivet Gun Necessary
It's cute that he thinks that dimestore silicone is going to stick to anything that isn't glass for more than ten seconds, but all he's doing is guaranteeing rot underneath that pointless plate that's going to leak and hold moisture directly against the wood forever.
Content for content sake even if it doesn't make sense. I would really like to see Rain Noe's ID work.
I've been saying this FOR SO LONG! I don't believe he's ever done ID, for a while his bio said "sewing-machine-fixer" or something of the like.
Just bizarre, A poor nail substitute, hideous looking, and guaranteed to fail and leak.
This is called using a nail.
reinventing the nail, for some reason. there are special nails for this purpose - stainless or aluminum and color matched to the coil stock.
I completely don't get it! Because you are not expanding the rivet, why is this any different from a simple stainless pin? You are piloting the diameter and depth of the rivet, so that is contributing nothing whatsoever to the fix - which relies solely on the pin.