FRIEZE ART FAIR NEW YORK 2012
MILAN 2012: SALONE INTERNAZIONALE DEL MOBILE
MILAN 2012: SATELLITE EXHIBITIONS
MILAN 2012: BRERA DESIGN DISTRICT
I like coffee, but I despise cafes. At least what we Americans have come to call cafes.
I respect the coffee bar, or espresso bar, as it's done in Italy. There coffee is not some fatuous beverage to be nursed. It's fuel, energy, a shot in the arm. There are few or no stools in a coffee bar and there damn sure ain't any couches. You walk in, put your foot on the rail, remain standing, maybe exchange a few words with the barista; he gives you your drink, you do it like a hot brown shot and then, most importantly, you get the hell out.
The American cafe that Starbucks and its ilk have produced are somewhat modeled after the French cafe, or a traditional coffeehouse. In France the sidewalk cafes are open to the street and feature rows of tables facing the sidewalk so you can people watch. But Americans are not interested in other people, they are primarily interested in themselves, so rather than people-watching they come and sit in couches for hours with their laptops that they plug into the wall in a self-entitled I-have-my-own-power-outlet kind of way.
In a traditional coffeehouse you sit and plot revolutions or listen to weird, challenging poetry. But Americans are not interested in the complexity of actual politics nor do they have an ear for poetry. So hitting the "Like" button on a Facebook snippet about the latest political pundit's bumpersticker wisdom or forwarding an e-mail about a cat that wants a cheeseburger are the preferred activities.
What could cause the layout and design of an American cafe to change? One thing, of course: Money. If you open up a cafe in the 'States you're expected to provide free wi-fi, and ignore the fact that your customers will drop a few bucks on one coffee or a shitty little pastry, and those things don't nearly add up to what the landlord wants from you.
And so a subset of American cafe owners are finally abandoning the model and moving towards a proper coffee bar where you stand and they deliver, as in an Italian espresso bar. Unsurprisingly, not all American customers are crazy about having their chairs and power outlets taken away, though we think it's a positive trend. Read all about it in this Times article called "The New Coffee Bars: Unplug, Drink, Go."
Comments
I do like the idea of a quick grab and go coffee bar. But that isn't to say there is anything wrong with having a coffee stop where you can hang out with friends on a Sunday morning and shoot the breeze in a nice atmosphere. A comfortable, well designed, family owned hang out spot where I can get good coffee should not be under attack.
totally agree! Either people watching or take away, see more of this world! I was just there in your last photo, Pellegrini's bar in Melbourne, Australia. The purple shirt guy is the owner, 70+ yr-old with amazing energy. That's what cafes should be, interaction between people!
All that is required to make a cafe a better experience is block cell and WiFi signals. Those who are primarily interested in themselves will get their coffee and get the hell out so they can get back online or on the phone and the rest of us can continue to plot our revolutions and watch the people.
I like the intensity of the case you make even though I am not convinced by the singularity of your conclusion. The get in / get out coffee bar has a place; probably in a dense and complex city. My observation of the many independent coffeehouses in Portland Oregon suggests to me they can function as a community hearth and are an important part of the social fabric of the city. Many also offer useful examples of what works and what doesn't work so well.
There is more than one way to amend the social failures and gaps experienced in the American coffeehouse by using changes in the format, plan, and experience of the cafe. American culture may be in a state of transition where the "third place" as it functions socially in many countries is in a position to become better articulated, understood, and perhaps expected. If design informs and supports use, the design of coffeehouses needs more sophisticated attention to embrace such a transition so they can run smoothly as social engines in addition to being places to get great coffee. Perhaps truly fulfilling third places are within our grasp.
Also, a coffeehouse needs to be strong enough in character to serve as a venue for people using phones and computers without being overwhelmed.
Perhaps you are unaware to the historic coffee houses where business men took up a table all day long an used it as their office?
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coffeehouse
Or you may be suggesting that there is a market for coffee places where you don't sit down? Well, future coffee shop owners are welcome to do whatever they like and you are welcome to give them your patronage.
Or, you simply couldn't find a place to sit the last time you went to Starbucks and it pissed you off. So sorry.
@Eric, totally agree. To each his own and no need to be condescending to others choices. There is no best way. Why do American commentators (for want of a better word) still persist with 'My way or the Highway'. There are many ways.
I am in Europe often (including Paris, London,Berlin & Madrid) and I must say that they might not use WiFi as much as Americans, but they will also sit for hours with a friend and only drink one or two cups of coffee.The major difference is what they do when they "sit",but not the check.
BTW...If you look at the trend of Europeans under the age of 30- you will notice they too are using Wi-Fi and they certainly are not spending tons of money. Americans turnover tables far more often than our European counterparts (this also includes full service restaurants).
So...cell phones and social media don't count as interaction with other people? And it's not cool for someone to do those activities in an atmosphere that feels more human than a cubicle or hotel room?
I've always been bothered by people who take up space and free Wi-Fi in a cafe and don't even bother to buy so much as a cup of coffee. Then again, I've always been too distracted to work in a cafe myself. I've also loathed the people who are working in cafes who shoot my table looks when we're chatting -- just chatting, people, in a public place! I'd prefer a cafe layout that's comfortable, but I don't expect a cafe owner to cater to my personal needs.
I think that both have a place in society. Cafes can operate to different audiences. I enjoy coffee and espresso bars where the focus is on the beverage, the atmosphere, the conversation, I also appreciate the working cafe where I can hunker down with my laptop and work for hours while buying a few beverages and maybe a sandwich.
Although people who work for more than two hours and just buy a $1.50 cup of coffee need to be slapped.
The market is big enough to support a whole range of coffee establishments. An upmarket coffee house does not need to offer WIFI etc - why? The bottom feeders in the gourmet coffee market need to find ways to compete amongst themselves, if they cannot do it by way of product, store ambiance or staff professionalism they add WIFI. I'd rather frequent a coffee establishment that has character, tradition, professionalism, quality product and enjoy the environment without laptops...